Cleansing with Water vs Cleanser: What Really Works?

There are two major schools of thought when it comes to cleansing — and both have their logic.

The Water-Only Advocates

Those who prefer washing with water alone often emphasize skin barrier preservation. Their argument is that many cleansers strip natural oils, alter skin pH, and lead to dryness or irritation — especially for those with sensitive skin.

Some dermatologists even recommend “water-only mornings,” saying that if you haven’t sweated, worn sunscreen, or gone outside overnight, there’s little to remove.

There’s some science behind this. Studies show that surfactant-heavy or alkaline cleansers can weaken the skin’s acid mantle — a slightly acidic protective film that helps defend against bacteria and moisture loss (Ananthapadmanabhan et al., 2004; Korting et al., 1990). Washing with water alone may preserve this barrier for people with dry or sensitive skin.

However, there’s a key limitation: water alone cannot effectively dissolve oil, sunscreen, or sebum. Water is hydrophilic — it bonds with other water-based substances — but most impurities on our skin are lipophilic (oil-based). In other words, sweat rinses off, but sunscreen, oxidized oil, and makeup do not.

The Cleanser Advocates

Those who use cleansers daily view them as essential for hygiene and skin health. Our modern environment exposes skin to oxidized sebum, pollutants, and sunscreen polymers — none of which water alone can remove.

Properly formulated cleansers use surfactants to break down these layers and rinse them away, without disrupting the barrier. Gentle surfactants like amino acid-based or glucoside surfactants have been shown to cleanse effectively while maintaining skin integrity (Lodén et al., 2011).

So while older soaps were harsh, modern cleansers can achieve clean skin and preserve moisture balance.

At DrLOUIE, we believe the best cleansing method depends on the situation.
There’s no one-size-fits-all approach — and while we stand by cleansers as essential in many cases, we also understand why water-only cleansing works for some people, sometimes.

We also recognize that our perspective isn’t strictly “scientific.” It’s based on practical experience, skin physiology, and understanding how skin responds to real-life conditions.

Let’s break down when we think cleansing with a proper cleanser is necessary — and when plain water will do just fine.

When You Need a Proper Cleanser

1. After Wearing Makeup
   Foundation, concealer, and even “light” tinted moisturizers often contain silicones, oils, and pigments that cling to the skin. Water can’t dissolve them. A mild facial cleanser — or a double cleanse starting with an oil-based one — ensures complete removal.

2. After Using Sunscreen
   Modern sunscreens (especially mineral or water-resistant formulas) are designed to adhere to skin and resist sweat. These need surfactants to break down properly.

3. After Sweating or Exercising
   Sweat mixes with oil and bacteria, especially on the face, chest, and back. Cleansers help remove this mix and prevent irritation or body acne.

4. After Exposure to Pollution or Dust
   Urban air contains particulate matter and oxidized oils that stick to the skin. Cleansing at the end of the day can reduce free radical exposure and inflammation.

5. After Applying Heavy Skincare
   Occlusive products — like barrier creams, thick moisturizers, or overnight masks — leave a film that builds up. Gentle cleansing removes the residue without compromising hydration.

6. After Cooking or Being in Greasy Environments
   If you’ve been in the kitchen for hours or in contact with oils or smoke, a cleanser removes that invisible layer of grime that can clog pores.

7. After Swimming
   Chlorine and saltwater can dehydrate and irritate skin. A mild cleanser helps rebalance pH and remove residues.

8. After Using Hair Products That Touch the Face
   Leave-in conditioners, styling sprays, and dry shampoo often end up on your forehead and neck. They can cause breakouts if not cleansed away.

9. Before Applying Active Ingredients
   Cleansing ensures your skin is free from barriers that might block serums or treatments, allowing better absorption.

10. For Those with Oily or Acne-Prone Skin
    Sebum oxidizes throughout the day, and leaving it on overnight can worsen congestion and blackheads.

When Water Cleansing Might Be Enough

1. In the Morning, on Normal or Dry Skin
   If your skin isn’t oily and you cleansed properly the night before, a splash of lukewarm water can refresh without stripping.

2. On Days You Stay Indoors (and Skip Sunscreen)
   If you’ve had no exposure to sweat, pollution, or products, water can suffice for light cleansing.

3. For Very Sensitive or Compromised Skin
   When skin is inflamed (e.g., after a dermatological treatment or in eczema flare-ups), avoiding surfactants for a few days can minimize irritation.

4. In Extremely Dry or Cold Climates
   When the air itself robs your skin of moisture, over-cleansing can worsen dehydration. Water rinsing plus a rich moisturizer can maintain comfort.

Our perspective comes from both formulation science and everyday observation.
We’ve seen how skin behaves when stripped too often — and how dull and congested it can look when not cleansed enough.

In short, cleansing is a balancing act.
We don’t believe in rigid rules because every skin type, lifestyle, and climate is different. While research can guide us, real-world skin doesn’t live in a lab.

So, our opinion leans toward moderation: Use cleansers when your skin needs them, not out of habit or fear.

And choose formulas that respect your barrier — gentle surfactants, balanced pH, and nourishing ingredients like allantoin or jojoba oil make all the difference.

When it comes to children, less is almost always more.

Children’s skin is thinner, has a higher water content, and a developing lipid barrier. Over-cleansing can quickly lead to dryness or irritation.

For young children:

• Plain water is usually enough for daily face cleansing.

• Use a gentle, fragrance-free cleanser only when needed — such as after outdoor play, sunscreen use, or sticky meals.

• Avoid antibacterial or heavily foaming cleansers unless medically advised.

For older children or teens, especially those beginning to produce more sebum, introducing a mild cleanser once a day can help prevent clogged pores — but there’s no need to overdo it.