Ingredient Combinations That Will Damage Our Skin
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Time to read 5 min
As our skin concerns increase, we tend to layer on different products to work on different skin concerns. But as Dr. Louie Kim, the founder of DrLOUIE skin care line mentioned, layering too many products is not good for your skin as you can suffocate it, not giving enough room for your skin to absorb all the nutrients, which could clog your pores and cause breakouts.
But there is another reason as well. Unless all of the products you are using are from the same line that are formulated to avoid any ingredient combination issues, you may be going for a wrong ingredient combinations that just do not go together for various reasons.
These are a few of those combinations.
1. Lactic or glycolic acids (AHAs) + retinol (Vitamin A)
Anyone who’s looking to maintain a younger looking skin might have heard of AHAs. Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) are a group of natural acids, including glycolic acid, lactic acid, citric acid and etc.
What they do is:
- They remove the uppermost layer of the skin to reveal a more refined skin
- They promote a natural cell turnover process.
As such, AHAs are found in many anti-aging serums, creams and even in some cleansers.
Retinol is yet another popular anti-aging ingredient, known to even out skin tone, reduce the look of wrinkles and tighten pores. Just like AHAs, retinol also works by turning over dead skin cells to reveal new skin underneath.
Because both AHA and retinol are some form of an exfoliator, using them together would lead to overexfoliation and cause skin irritation. So you should be very careful when using one after another, especially if you have sensitive skin.
If you don’t have sensitive skin and you still want to use both of these active ingredients, you can try the following:
AHAs in AM, Retinol in PM : You can use AHAs in your morning routine (since they are less affected by light) and reserve retinol for nighttime. However, remember that AHAs make your skin more sensitive to the sun, so sunscreen is essential during the day.
Rotating Use: Instead of using AHAs and retinol on the same night, apply one on one night and the other on the next. For example, you can use an AHA product on Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, and apply retinol on Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday. This schedule allows your skin to benefit from both without compounding irritation.
Layering with barrier repair moisturizer with soothing ingredients: After using either AHAs or retinol, follow up with a hydrating, barrier-repairing moisturizer containing ingredients like hyaluronic acid, ceramides, or allantoin (like in DrLOUIE’s All-in-One Essence). These ingredients can help counterbalance dryness and potential irritation.
- Start with low concentrations of both AHAs and retinol: If your skin is sensitive or if you’re new to these ingredients, this is all the more important. For instance, if using glycolic acid, you might choose a product with a 5-8% concentration initially and a 0.25-0.5% retinol. Once your skin builds tolerance, you can gradually increase strength as needed.
- Buffering Method: Apply a Moisturizer First. If you have very sensitive skin, you can apply a light layer of moisturizer with soothing ingredients (like our Age-Defying Night Cream or All-in-One Essence) before your retinol. This “buffering” technique helps reduce the intensity of retinol absorption, softening its impact on the skin.
2. Vitamin C + Alkaline Cleanser
Pure Vitamin C known as L-Ascorbic Acid tends to stay stable and gets absorbed into the skin well at low pH levels, preferably 3.0 - 3.3ish for maximum penetration. But how you prep your skin affects how well Vitamin C will work on your skin. That’s when cleansing with the right kind of cleanser comes into play.
Alkaline cleanser causes your skin to be alkaline as well, not slightly acidic as it should be. This will negatively impact the absorption of often very-pricey vitamin c products, which would reduce their benefits on our skin.
- Neutralization Effect: If your skin is too alkaline after cleansing, the higher pH can neutralize the Vitamin C serum or at least interfere with its absorption. Alkaline environments can cause L-Ascorbic Acid to oxidize quickly, which not only reduces its effectiveness but can also lead to irritation or sensitivity for some users.
- Barrier Disruption: Using an alkaline cleanser can also weaken the skin’s barrier temporarily. This disruption can cause Vitamin C (L-Ascorbic Acid) to be more irritating than usual and less effective because it requires an intact, slightly acidic barrier for best results.
As such, with a vitamin C product, using a pH-balanced cleanser, such as DrLOUIE Mild Face Cleanser, will enhance its absorption and ensure that it does its job well.
3. Vitamin C + Retinol (Vitamin A)
This is a tricky one.
According to a new study, retinol can help stabilize unstable Vitamin C, especially ascorbic acid. So when used together, these two don’t cancel each other out but work together well.
But the problem is with skin irritation. Retinol, as mentioned earlier, works by exfoliating the skin, revealing a softer and more vulnerable new skin layer - this is how retinol evens out skin tone and reduces the look of wrinkles!
But used with Vitamin C, you may feel a tingling sensation and even redness in the face.
Imagine you have sensitive skin that’s been made even more sensitive by retinol. If you put vitamin C, with its low pH level to make it effective, on top of it, it could cause skin irritation and redness. So using these two together is a definite no-no for sensitive skin.
But if you still want to try using these two together, there are things you can do:
1) Use Vitamin C in the Morning and Retinol at Night
- Vitamin C in the Morning: Apply your L-Ascorbic Acid serum in the morning after cleansing and before moisturizer and sunscreen. Vitamin C’s antioxidant properties help protect your skin from free radicals and environmental damage throughout the day.
- Retinol at Night: Apply retinol as part of your nighttime routine. Retinol increases cell turnover, which can make the skin more sensitive to sunlight, so it’s best used at night. Using them at separate times of day allows both ingredients to work optimally without overlapping.
2. Alternate Nights if Using Both at Night
- If you prefer to keep both in your evening routine, alternate them. For example, use the Vitamin C serum on Monday, Wednesday, and Friday nights, and retinol on Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday nights. This approach gives your skin a break in between and reduces the likelihood of irritation while still providing the benefits of both ingredients.
3. Wait Time Between Applications (If Layering at Night)
- Layering Approach: If you really want to use both at night, apply your Vitamin C serum first (as it’s best absorbed on clean, dry skin), wait about 15-30 minutes for it to absorb and the pH to stabilize, then apply retinol. However, this layering method is generally recommended only for those with resilient, well-acclimated skin.
- Caution: Some people may still experience irritation with this method, as layering two strong actives can be too intense for many skin types.
4. Moisturize and Use Sunscreen!
- Since both Vitamin C and retinol can make your skin more sensitive, always follow up with a good moisturizer to maintain skin barrier health, such as DrLOUIE All-in-One Essence or Age Defying Night Cream. In the morning, make sure to apply a broad-spectrum sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher. Sunscreen is critical to protect your skin from UV damage, especially when using active ingredients like these.
These are just some of the ingredient combinations that should be avoided, especially if you have sensitive skin.
As a rule of thumb, it is best not to overdo it when it comes to highly active ingredients to avoid unnecessary skin irritation. And always LISTEN TO YOUR SKIN. If you skin is saying NO to any actives, then take a break.
